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Burner Not Working describes a single zone or burner that stays cold while the others behave normally. Because the fault is confined to one position, the supply and the main board are usually sound, and the cause sits in that zone's switch, wiring or heating component. Which of those it is depends on whether the cooktop is gas, radiant or induction.

Causes

A failed element, coil or burner assembly · An infinite switch not closing at that position · A burned connector at the element terminals · A failed relay driving that zone · A broken conductor in the zone's harness

Repair

We work on the dead zone against a working one, which turns a hunt into a comparison. The switch or control output is measured with the zone called for, then the supply at the element terminals, then the element itself, so the cheapest test comes first. A burned terminal or connector is repaired with the correct part rather than reconnected, because the damage recurs otherwise, and we confirm every other zone still behaves before closing the cooktop up.

Urgency

medium

Uneven Heat Distribution is a zone that heats one part of a pan far harder than the rest, or a cooktop whose zones no longer match each other. Cookware causes more of this than components do, because a base that is warped or thin makes contact only in patches. When the problem survives a change of pan, the element or its control is at fault.

Causes

A warped or thin pan base · An element with a failed section · A bowed element sitting unevenly under the glass · An infinite switch cycling erratically · Insulation displaced beneath the element

Repair

We test with a flat, heavy pan across every zone and compare, which separates cookware from appliance in a single step. If the unevenness follows the zone, we run the element and watch how it glows across its coils, since a dead segment or a bowed coil shows itself immediately. The switch is observed through several cycles for uneven timing, and the element is replaced where its heating is genuinely patchy rather than adjusted in place.

Urgency

medium

Won't Ignite is gas reaching the burner with nothing lighting it, or an igniter sparking into a burner that gets no gas. The distinction matters because one releases gas into the room and the other does not. If gas can be smelled while the burner fails to light, the knob should be closed and the burner left alone until it has been checked.

Causes

A fouled or cracked spark electrode · A failed spark module · A blocked burner port next to the electrode · A flame-failure valve not opening · A wet electrode after a spill or cleaning

Repair

We establish first whether gas is arriving, because an igniter sparking into a dry burner and a burner flooding with gas call for opposite responses. The electrode is cleaned and its gap and lead checked, the ports beside it cleared, and the spark module tested for output on that channel. Where the flame-failure valve is not opening we replace it rather than defeat it, and the burner is lit and held several times before we finish.

Urgency

high

Control Panel Issue covers keys that ignore a press, register the wrong zone, or act without being touched. On a touch cooktop the glass, the sensor board behind it and the ribbon joining them all sit in the heat and the spill path, so a control fault is as often contamination as electronics. The pattern of which keys fail narrows the field.

Causes

Spill residue bridging the sensor pads · A corroded ribbon connector at the control board · A cracked sensor track under the glass · A failed user-interface board · Heat from below distorting sensor calibration

Repair

We map exactly which keys respond and which do not, because a single dead key and a whole dead panel point at different parts. The glass is cleaned and re-tested, then the trim comes off so the ribbon, its connector and the sensor board can be inspected for tracking and spill damage. Where the board has failed we fit the matched part and recalibrate, and where heat from the cavity below is the cause we address that too.

Urgency

high

Gas Smell around a cooktop means unburnt gas is escaping somewhere between the supply and the burner. A faint smell for a moment as a burner lights is normal; a smell that lingers, or is present with everything off, is not. Turn the burners off, close the appliance gas tap, ventilate the room, avoid switches and flames, and leave the cooktop out of use.

Causes

A leaking manifold or hose joint · A valve passing gas in the off position · A burner not lighting and releasing gas · A perished or damaged flexible connector · A loose orifice in the burner throat

Repair

Close the appliance gas tap and ventilate before anything else; this is not a fault to investigate with a lighter or to leave until later. We leak test the connector, the manifold joints and every valve under pressure, working from the supply inwards, and we never rely on smell to locate it. Any joint that has been disturbed is remade with the correct compound and retested. The cooktop returns to service only once it holds pressure.

Urgency

critical

Cracked Surface covers any break in the cooktop's working surface, whether glass, ceramic or enamel. On a glass or ceramic top a crack is not cosmetic: it lets spills reach live elements and wiring beneath, and the panel carries the load of every pan. A cracked ceramic cooktop should be isolated and left out of use until the panel is replaced.

Causes

An impact from a dropped pan or utensil · A cold spill reaching a hot zone · A cut-out or clamping arrangement loading the glass · An existing chip spreading under heat cycling · A frame corroded and distorting beneath the panel

Repair

Isolate the cooktop at the breaker and stop using it, because a crack is a path for liquid to reach what lies underneath. We establish how it began, since impact, thermal shock and installation stress each call for something different and only the last will break the replacement as well. The panel is renewed as an assembly, the cut-out and mounting checked for flatness and clamping, and the parts beneath inspected for spills already through.

Urgency

critical

Gas Burner Not Lighting is one burner refusing to light while the others on the cooktop light normally. Because the spark module and the gas supply are shared, a single dead burner points at that burner's own electrode, ports or valve. The commonest cause by far is spill and food debris sitting in the ports around the ignition point.

Causes

Blocked ports around the ignition point · A cracked ceramic on that burner's electrode · A burner cap seated out of position · That burner's valve not opening fully · A broken electrode lead at the burner

Repair

We strip that burner alone, clear its ports and venturi, and refit the head and cap in their correct positions, which resolves most single-burner cases without a part at all. If it still refuses, the electrode is inspected at the burner for a cracked ceramic or a tracked lead, and the spark observed for where it actually jumps. The valve is tested last and replaced when it is genuinely not opening, then the burner is lit repeatedly.

Urgency

medium

All Gas Burners Not Lighting is every burner failing together, which is a very different fault from one dead burner. Whatever they share has stopped: the spark module, the electricity feeding it, or the gas supply reaching the manifold. If the burners spark but no gas arrives, the cooktop should be left isolated at its tap while the supply is investigated.

Causes

A failed spark module or its supply · The appliance isolation tap closed or partly closed · An appliance regulator failed shut · No gas supply to the property · A tripped socket or fuse feeding the ignition

Repair

We treat the electricity feeding the ignition and the gas reaching the manifold as two separate questions, since the symptom is identical and the remedies are not. A burner is opened and tested for gas at the orifice, and manifold pressure measured against the rating plate. If the spark module has no output on any channel it is replaced, and where the property's supply is the problem we say so rather than fitting parts to a cooktop that is working.

Urgency

high

Constant Clicking When Not in Use is the spark module firing with every knob at off. The module is being told a burner is being lit when none is, and it will keep sparking until the cause is removed. It is not usually dangerous with the gas off, but a module sparking in a wet control area should be isolated at the socket or breaker.

Causes

Moisture in a switch or the control area · A spill run into the ignition switch contacts · A knob switch stuck partly closed · A tracked or contaminated electrode lead · A failed spark module firing continuously

Repair

We isolate the electricity supply and let the control area dry fully, because moisture in a switch causes most of these and returns a cooktop to normal at no cost. If clicking resumes once dry, each knob's ignition switch is tested for a contact held closed and the electrode leads inspected for tracking to the chassis. A module that fires with every switch proved open is replaced, and the cooktop watched through a normal cooling period afterwards.

Urgency

medium

Weak or Low Flame is a burner that lights but produces far less heat than it should, even at its highest setting. If only one burner is affected, the restriction sits in that burner's orifice, venturi or ports. If every burner is weak the cause is upstream, at the regulator, the hose, or the supply feeding the appliance as a whole.

Causes

A partially blocked burner orifice · Debris restricting the venturi throat · Blocked ports around the burner crown · An orifice set for a different fuel · Manifold pressure below the rating plate

Repair

We compare every burner before touching any of them, because one weak burner and a cooktop full of weak burners lead in opposite directions. A single weak burner is stripped, its orifice and venturi cleared, and its ports cleaned. Where all burners are down we measure manifold pressure under load and check the orifice set against the rating plate, then deal with the regulator or the supply rather than cleaning burners that were never blocked.

Urgency

medium

Yellow or Orange Flame means the burner is not getting the air it needs to burn cleanly. A correctly set burner burns blue with a defined inner cone, while a lazy yellow flame sooties pans and produces more carbon monoxide than it should. Brief orange flecks from dust or salt in the air are normal, but a persistently yellow burner needs attention.

Causes

An air shutter closed too far · A blocked or partly obstructed venturi · An orifice too large for the fuel supplied · A cooktop burner cap sitting off-centre on its base · Manifold pressure above the appliance's rating

Repair

We confirm the fuel the appliance is set for against the fuel actually supplied, because a cooktop running on the wrong orifices burns yellow and no amount of air adjustment will cure it. The burner is then stripped, the venturi cleared, the cap seated correctly and the air shutter set to give a defined blue cone. Manifold pressure is measured, and we advise on combustion and ventilation in the room rather than treating the burner in isolation.

Urgency

medium

Electric Burner Not Heating is a radiant or coil zone that stays cold while the indicator and the rest of the cooktop behave normally. With the other zones working, the supply is proven, so the break lies between that zone's switch and its element. On coil models the receptacle the element plugs into fails more often than the element it feeds.

Causes

An open radiant or coil element · An infinite switch not closing on that zone · A burned element receptacle on a coil model · A loose or corroded terminal at the element · A broken conductor in the zone's harness

Repair

We call for the zone and measure whether voltage arrives at the element, which splits the job in half straight away. If it does, the element is measured for continuity and replaced when open. If it does not, the switch and the harness back to it are tested, and on a coil cooktop the receptacle and element terminals are inspected together, because arcing damages both and a new element in a burned receptacle simply repeats the failure.

Urgency

high