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Not Igniting covers a burner that produces no spark at all, or sparks endlessly without ever catching. On a spark-ignition stove the module, the electrode and the burner porting all have to work together, and a single wet electrode can hold the whole cooktop in a clicking loop. Gas is flowing throughout, so it is not a fault to persist with.

Causes

A worn or fouled spark electrode · Moisture in the igniter well after a spill · Carbon build-up across the burner ports · A failed spark module · An appliance shut-off valve left closed

Repair

We dry and clean the igniter well, then check the electrode tip, its ceramic insulator and its gap against the burner cap. The spark module is tested for output on each channel, and the ports are cleared so flame can travel round the crown. Where the module, the electrode or the valve is genuinely at fault we replace it and leak-test every joint we open. Do not keep pressing the igniter while gas is flowing.

Urgency

high

Burner Not Heating describes a surface burner that stays cold while the knob and the indicator behave normally. On an electric stove the heat path runs from the infinite switch through the receptacle to the element itself, and any of the three can open. The element is the part owners assume has failed, though the receptacle is at least as common.

Causes

A burned-out coil element · Scorched contacts in the element receptacle · An infinite switch no longer closing · A broken terminal at the element tail · An open winding inside the element

Repair

We test the element for continuity off the appliance, then measure the supply arriving at its terminals with the switch called on. That separates a dead element from a switch that is no longer closing and from a receptacle whose contacts have burned. A scorched receptacle is replaced alongside the element rather than reused, because pitted contacts will destroy a new one the same way. We confirm the burner heats evenly through its full range before finishing.

Urgency

medium

Gas Odor from Stove on a stove is the one fault category we treat as stop-work rather than schedule-it. Any smell of gas around a stove means unburnt fuel is escaping from the cooker, its connector or the supply, and the leak has to be made safe before any fault-finding starts.

Causes

A stove burner or oven valve leaking past its seat · A rusted-through burner tube on the stove · A stove pilot or igniter assembly that lets fuel through when off · A failed pressure regulator feeding the stove · A loose or perished connector at the back of the stove

Repair

We isolate the stove at its shut-off before anything else happens, then leak-test every joint and component with a calibrated detector rather than by smell. If the leak is on the stove itself, such as a burner valve, a burner tube or a pilot or igniter not shutting off, we fit the replacement part and leak-test that joint again before the stove is used. If the leak is traced to the pipework or supply feeding the stove rather than the stove itself, we say so, keep it isolated and leave it disconnected.

Urgency

critical

Uneven Heating on the cooktop shows as a pan that browns along one edge and stays pale on the other. The usual culprits are geometry rather than power: a warped element, a pan whose base no longer sits flat, or a burner crown that is not seated square in its well. True element faults do occur, but they are the minority.

Causes

A warped or sagging element · A pan base distorted by heat · A burner crown not seated square · Ports blocked along one side of the crown · An inner radiant zone no longer glowing

Repair

We check the flatness of the element or the seating of the burner crown first, then the pan itself, since a dished base defeats an otherwise healthy burner. On gas we clear the ports right round the crown and confirm the flame ring is even in height and colour. On electric we look for a coil that has sagged or an inner radiant zone that no longer glows with the outer. Anything distorted is replaced rather than bent back.

Urgency

low

Gas Burner Not Lighting describes one burner that sparks steadily but never catches, while its neighbours light normally. Because the ignition side is clearly working, attention belongs on the gas side instead: the orifice, the venturi tube, and the seating of the cap that shapes the flame ring.

Causes

A blocked burner orifice · A burner cap seated off its pins · Food debris inside the venturi tube · A gas valve not opening on that channel · An insect nest in the burner tube

Repair

We lift the cap and crown and inspect the orifice, then clear the venturi, which collects debris and occasionally insect nests. The cap is refitted square on its locating pins, since an offset cap moves the ports away from the spark. If the burner still refuses with a clear gas path, the valve serving that channel is tested and replaced. We isolate at the appliance valve before opening anything and leak-test afterwards.

Urgency

medium

Oven Section Not Heating means the cooktop works normally while the oven below stays cold. On a gas stove the igniter has to draw enough current to open the safety valve before any gas reaches the burner, so an igniter that still glows convincingly will keep the oven cold. On an electric stove the bake element or its supply is the usual break.

Causes

A weak oven igniter drawing low current · A safety valve not opening · An open bake element · A broken igniter lead in the cavity · A failed oven thermostat contact

Repair

On gas we watch the igniter through a call for heat and measure the current it draws, because the valve opens on current and not on glow. A weak igniter is replaced as a matter of course rather than the valve. On electric we check the bake element for continuity and look for a burned lead at the rear of the cavity. We then run the oven up to temperature and confirm it cycles rather than simply climbing.

Urgency

high

Surface Element Not Heating applies to a radiant or plug-in element that no longer warms while the rest of the cooktop behaves. The circuit is short and easy to prove: switch, wiring, element. Under glass, the element limiter that protects the surface can also hold a zone off entirely without any fault in the element itself.

Causes

An open radiant element coil · A failed element limiter under the glass · A loose spade terminal beneath the cooktop · A switch contact welded open · Heat-damaged insulation on the element leads

Repair

We isolate the stove and measure the element cold, then confirm the switch delivers to its terminals when called. Under a glass top we also check the limiter and the condition of the spade connections, which loosen over years of heating and cooling. Burned terminals are renewed with the element, not reused. Once fitted we cycle the zone from low to full and check the surface temperature rises and falls with the control.

Urgency

high

Clock / Timer Not Working covers a dark or frozen display on the stove's control head. The clock usually shares its supply with the oven's timed functions, so a dead display often takes timed baking with it, while the burners, being mechanical, carry on exactly as before.

Causes

A failed clock or timer module · A blown control transformer · An open line fuse feeding the control head · Cracked solder on the display board · A ribbon connector unseated behind the panel

Repair

We check the supply arriving at the control head before condemning the module, since a blown line fuse or a failed transformer presents exactly as a dead clock. Ribbon and edge connectors behind the panel are reseated and inspected for corrosion from cooking vapour. Where the module itself has failed we fit the correct part for the model, reset the clock, and confirm the oven will accept a timed programme again before finishing.

Urgency

medium

Control Panel Not Responding means the display lights but the keys do nothing, or only some keys answer. On a stove the panel sits directly above the cooktop and takes years of rising heat and grease, which is why the membrane and its tail fail far more often than the board behind them.

Causes

A failed membrane touch panel · Grease ingress behind the keypad · A cracked ribbon tail at the panel · A failed user-interface board · A control lock left engaged

Repair

We test which keys respond and in what pattern, because a single dead row points at the tail or the membrane while a total loss points further back. The ribbon is unseated, cleaned and refitted, and the panel checked for grease that has crept behind the laminate. Any control lock is cleared before parts are considered. Where the membrane or the interface board has failed we fit the correct assembly and test every key and function.

Urgency

medium

Oven Temperature Inaccurate on a stove means the cavity settles somewhere other than the temperature set, usually low, and baking suffers long before anyone checks it against a thermometer. Swinging either side of the set point is normal; a consistent offset in one direction points at the sensing circuit or at heat escaping past the door.

Causes

An oven sensor whose resistance has drifted out of tolerance · A calibration offset never set after installation · A door seal letting heat escape at the upper corners · A hinge no longer pulling the door fully closed · A bake element or igniter cycling weakly

Repair

We log cavity temperature with an independent probe across several cycles rather than trusting a single reading, because ovens are designed to swing either side of the set point. Sensor resistance is measured cold and at temperature against its specification, and the control offset is adjusted only once the sensor itself proves sound. The door seal and hinge are checked along their length, since heat escaping at the top reads as an oven running cool.

Urgency

medium

Broiler Not Working means the oven bakes normally but the top heat never arrives. Broil is a separate circuit with its own element or burner and frequently its own relay, which is why it fails on its own. On gas stoves the broil burner sits in the drawer below and carries its own igniter.

Causes

An open broil element · A broil relay not switching · A weak broil burner igniter · A selector switch not calling broil · A broken element terminal at the rear

Repair

We call for broil and check whether the control is switching that circuit at all, which separates a relay fault from a failed element. The element is tested cold for continuity and inspected for a break at its terminals. On a gas stove we watch the broil burner igniter and measure its draw before touching the valve. We replace what has failed and run a full broil cycle to confirm the heat is steady and the control cuts it correctly.

Urgency

medium

Self-Clean Not Working means the cycle will not start, or aborts shortly after locking. The control will not commit to a clean until the door lock has driven fully home and reported back, so most refusals are in the lock mechanism rather than anywhere in the heating side of the stove.

Causes

A stove self-clean lock motor jamming before it locks · A lock cam switch out of position · A door not closing fully onto its catch · A failed clean relay · A stove oven sensor giving a reading that blocks self-clean

Repair

We run the lock motor and watch the cam reach its stop, then check the switches it operates, since a cam that stalls halfway leaves the control waiting indefinitely. The door catch and its alignment are checked, because a door held a fraction open will never satisfy the lock. We then confirm the oven sensor reads sensibly cold, as an out-of-range sensor blocks the cycle outright. Faulty lock assemblies and relays are replaced and the cycle proven through.

Urgency

medium